In recent years, photobiomodulation (PBM) – popularly known as phototherapy or light therapy – has gained prominence in dermatology and beauty care due to its proven effects on skin regeneration. As early as 2008, studies by Morinō et al. supported the use of red light for dermatological treatments. More recently, work such as that of Lee et al. (2025), and Sumii (2024), agree on the benefits of using red and near infrared (R-NIR) light to treat anything from wrinkles to hyperpigmentation.
Action Mechanisms: How Light Works on the Skin
The key to this technology lies in its ability to stimulate mitochondria. When red (630-660 nm) or near-infrared (700-850 nm) light penetrates the skin, it interacts with cytochrome c oxidase, a key enzyme in the production of cellular energy (ATP). This process triggers a cascade of effects:
● Increased collagen and elastin synthesis: Fibroblasts, the cells responsible for skin firmness, increase their activity by up to 30% after controlled exposures (Morinō et al., 2008).
● Oxidative stress reduction: NIR light mitigates free radicals, which are linked to premature ageing (Lee et al., 2025).
● Improved circulation: It promotes tissue repair, as demonstrated by Sumii’s research on cultured skin for transplants.
Practical applications
There are several applications for red light, for example, its anti-ageing and depigmenting effect seen in the clinical trial by Lee et al. (2025) with commercial LED masks. After eight weeks of use, significant improvements were observed:
● 20% decrease in wrinkle depth (measured with ultrasound).
● Skin tone is evened out thanks to the inhibition of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production.
These findings are consistent with the observations of Morinō et al. in human fibroblasts, where red light showed a 40% increase in cell proliferation without cytotoxic effects.
Its use in regenerative medicine is also promising. In this field, Sumii highlights more specialised applications, such as the activation of cultured skin for transplants. PBM not only accelerated healing, but also improved graft survival in preclinical models, opening the door to treatments for burns or chronic ulcers.
Key points: Consistency and Combination
Current science supports the efficacy and safety of LED devices, especially in the 630-850 nm range. However, for visible results, it is recommended:
● Consistency: 10-20 minute sessions, 3-5 times per week (Lee et al., 2025).
● Combination with other treatments: phototherapy enhances the absorption of active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or peptides, but does not serve as a replacement for some of their properties such as hydration, so it is important to understand how treatments complement each other.
Although long-term studies are lacking, these advances position photobiomodulation as a non-invasive and accessible tool for dermatological care, both in clinics and at home.
References
● Lee, S., Afandi, M. M., Lee, J., & Kim, J. (2025). In vivo application of the effects of red-to-near-infrared light spectroscopy on skin-brightening and anti-aging properties via LED facial masks. Cosmetics, *12*(1), 4.
● Morinō, S., Kawamata, S., Kotani, M., Fujita, A., & Hirano, T. (2008). 赤色LED (Light emitting diode) の正常ヒト線維芽細胞に及ぼす影響 [LED Red Light Effects on normal human fibroblasts]. Aesthetic Dermatology, 18. 30-34.
● Sumii, Y. (2024). Photobiomodulationを用いた移植用培養皮膚の活性化 [Cultured Skin Transplant Activation through Photobiomodulation]. JJSLSM, 45(2). 169-174
